February 4th was Solar Power install day. I'm not going to go into all the technical
aspects of how big of a solar panel should be installed because basically it is
buy as large as you can afford! One
point to keep in mind is that you need a 12v panel and a lot of larger panels
are 24 or even 48 volt panels. I'm not
saying they CAN NOT be used but a 12 volt panel is much easier to hookup to my
RV which is already designed to run on 12 volt.
So how did I install my panel?
First step is to decide where to mount your panel. For the size panel that I purchased I really
only had one spot on my roof to install it.
I elected to use the "Z" mounting bracket over the adjustable
bracket so my panel will lay flat with only a inch or so air space under the
panel. At some point when I have the
ability to modify this a bit I will add a inch or two to the rear mount to give
it a slight angle, not to provide a better sun angle but to first when it rains
it will help keep the glass clean and not pool up and leave mud spots.
When screwing the panels down waterproofing is a two step
process. First using a ball of mastic
sealer under the mounting bracket wherever a screw will penetrate the roof
membrane. Using the mastic sealer will drawn into and around the screw. Then using some Dicor caulk over the
screw. Using Dicor calk designed for
rubber roofs will preserve your rubber roofing guarantee. Do not use silicone!
Step two is how to get the wiring into the RV. It is best to do this without drilling any
holes by directing them down the refrigerator cooling shaft or another way is
to drop them alongside a vent pipe but not only do I think the refrigerator
shaft is not only a better path but in my case more convenient. Under my refrigerator is a perfect mounting
location for the solar controller and next to that is my power panel.
The rain cover to the refrigerator shaft is held on by four
screws. Once removed you should have
some screening to keep bees and other varmints from making their home inside
the shaft. I made a hole in this screen
just big enough to drop two 10 gauge wires down and under the refrigerator.
Step three is to mount my solar controller. I selected a 30 amp controller which is large
enough to add another panel or two in the future and also provides me a digital
readout telling me the State of Charge, Battery voltage and the PV
Current. To hook up the controller you
mount the positive wire to the back of the panel marked solar and the negative
to the negative. The other connection is
to connect the positive wire from the controller to the positive connection on
the fuse panel and the negative to the negative. You can also lead this directly to the
battery but doing it this way not only saves quite a bit of wire but you also
do not need a catastrophe fuse because there should already be installed.
Step four and the last step is to secure the wires from the
PV panel to the roof of the RV. Use wire
clamps to screw down about every three
feet using mastic sealer under the clamp when screwing it down to the roof and then
using some more Dicor caulk to cover the screw. Re-install the cap on top of the
refrigerator.
DONE!
At the time of this writing my PV panel has been installed
for one week now and has been working perfectly. I still need to start my generator to use the
coffee maker not much for much else.
A problem with a flat mount is that if you park in the shade
there will not be much power produced from your solar collector. Eventually I would like to have a second
panel that I can deploy in such a circumstance or to provide more power when
needed. To accomplish this I will use
some 10 gauge wire from the solar side of the controller to a convenient
location outside and install a 20 amp rated female plug. The solar panel will use a heavy duty 10
gauge extension cord hard wired on the solar panel side and another 20 amp rated
male plug. All that has to be done now
is to deploy the panel to a sunny location and plug it in, well that is after I
purchase that second panel that is.





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